Please READ this before REMOVING any of the old upholstery skins
or INSTALLING the NEW upholstery skins
The following replacement upholstery tips are in no patricular order
Recommended for Ease of Removal &/or Installing our Skins
Staple Remover - China Marker
Stapler - Staples (Stainless Steel)
Slip Film (a must for all skins)
Dacron &/or Layer of Foam (some areas)
All can be found on our DIY page
Other tools, might be needed - phillips screw driver, ratchet and sockets
Unpack and spread the skins out in a warm environment, if possible, to prevent stubborn fold marks. They will come out with stretching and heat when installing them but the less you have the easier it is during installation. The warmer the skin the easier to install and adjust. Placing the skin in direct sunlight for about 30 minutes before installing is the safest way to warm them but a more convenient way is to use a personal fan forced heater. It MUST be all plastic with no visible metal or heating elements. Place the heater on the end of your work table and place the skin so the warm air is blowing across the skin. Do not allow the skin to touch the heater. One the skin is good and warm, begin the installation leaving the heater blowing on the skin as you work. You may get a little warm but it's worth it to have the vinyl much easier to stretch and fit. Before using any other heat source, CALL or E- mail US!
We recommend that you replace the stainless steel machine screws that you remove on motor box handle, some hinges, etc. as Correct Craft/Nautique cut the ends off and getting the nuts started back on them is very difficult, if not impossible. Tighten any loose screws on the coaming pads, rear hatch hinges, etc. that you can only get to when the skins are off. Replace any Hardware at this time.
When installing the skins, always staple close to the edge of the vinyl away from the edge of the item. That way, if you need to remove the staple to readjust the skin, there is no chance the holes from the removed staple(s) will move into an area that will show. After you are sure the skin fits correctly, you can staple closer to the edge of the item.
Do not trim any excess off of the skin until you are positive it fits properly and does not need any adjustment. Have plenty of razor blades/knives handy for trimming. Dull blades cause mistakes. After the skin is totally installed, manually manipulate all of the welt so that the tail on the welt, (which is on the inside of the skin so you have to go by feel), is turned so it lays flat along the sides of the item.
Cover every piece with the plastic slip film, you can staple it or use some aerosol spray glue, making sure to cut it as needed where there are listings passing through the foam. This is not to keep out water though it may help with that a little, it allows the skin to be installed without sticking to the foam. Without the plastic, installation will take twice as long and look half as good!
VERY IMPORTANT ! Mark the back side of the board of coaming pads, seat backs, etc. where seams of stripes on the skins are wrapped and stapled. This is the only way to ensure that all stripes will line up from piece to piece assuming they line up before you remove them. The hidem and underliner will have to be removed first on most items before you can mark location of the seams and welt start and stop on the boards.
Start with the listings, (the piece that is sewn to the skin that pulls down between the 2 pieces of foam and staples to the foundation on seats and some backrest), is made long intentionally. You will have to remove the front or the back section of foam to get to the stapled area. Remove the old staples, then staple the new listing into place. Roll it up to get the desired length that pulls the skin down to the proper depth and staple.
Take several pictures of each item before and as you remove the item from the boat and before you remove the old skin so you have a reference as you install the new skin and reinstall the item in the boat.
DO NOT cut the old skins off. Remove all of the staples to remove them. You want the old skins to be just as they were installed for comparison. It also insures that all the staples are removed thus no chance of one staple sticking up damaging the new skin.
Any required openings in a skin, ie; speaker holes, walk thru wall net openings, throttle opening, etc., are cut AFTER the skin is installed.
Coaming pads and backrest have welt, (aka cording, piping, etc.), that is stapled on after the skin is stapled on. The welt DOES NOT go all the way around. After removing the underliner, (aka backing), from the item, mark where the welt begins and ends on the board with a pencil or china marker for reference when installing the new welt.